Wednesday, February 17, 2016

Iron Messiah, Zion

Iron Messiah
5.10 Trad, 6 pitches
Grave IV

200 ft of 5.6ish "approach"
Some sketch approach moves. A guy died on the approach to this climb in 2012, follow your heart. 
John leads the way up the first pitch, which is a bolted 5.10 face climb followed by a 5.8 chimney. Do not bring a bag on this climb. 
Me starting off our 2nd pitch. The pitch starts out at the top of a big ledge. We traversed right a bit to get into the crack and groove that leads you to the corner system above (5.10 )

John on his way up the upper half of the 2nd pitch; beginning of the corner.  
Some jamming, stemming, chimneying, lie-backing. The corner was sweet.  
John continues up the corner and into the beginning of the chimney above (5.9). 
Me working my way up the chimney on the third pitch.
Me struggling up the awkward and hard-to-protect chimney on our 4th pitch (5.9)
John works his way up the narrow chimney, using any edges or variations in the wall texture he can find.
John leads the way up our 5th pitch - crack to ramp to a big, belay ledge (5.9)
Pitch 6 - the money pitch. This pitch is just corner climbing the whole way. No chimney! Lots of lie-backing, and jamming. 5.10. 
John works his way up the final pitch of the corner.
View from the top

Summit pic
John on rappel 1 of 6 to the ground. Two 70 m ropes