Monday, May 26, 2014

City of Rocks

I spent Memorial Day weekend in City of Rocks exploring, camping, and climbing with some of my good friends.  The geology is unique and the climbing is fantastic.



Friday pm:  
Theater of Shadows, 5.7 sport, 4 pitches - Steinfell's Dome (CoR warm-up with Kayte)
*Wheat Thin, 5.7 trad, 1 pitch - Elephant Rock (Kayte and I)
*Columbian Crack, 5.7+ trad, 1 pitch - Elephant Rock (Kayte and I)

Saturday: 
*Intruding Dike, 5.7 trad, 1 pitch, Bloody Fingers Corridor (morning climb w/Heather, Greg, Kayte)
Pure Pleasure, 5.6 trad, 1 pitch, Window Rock (afternoon climb with Ryan, Charlotte, Greg, Kayte)
Juniper Jam, 5.6 trad, 1 pitch, Window Rock (afternoon climb with Ryan, Charlotte, Greg, Kayte)
*Twist and Crawl, 5.8 R trad/sport, 1 pitch, Super Hits - Bloody Fingers (KD, KB, DS, Greg)
Mystery Achievement, 5.7 R sport, 1 pitch, Super Hits - Bloody Fingers (KD, KB, DS, Greg)

Sunday:
Eastside Groove, 5.6 trad, 2 pitches - Bath Rock (early morning climb with Greg and Luke)
Wheat Thin, 5.7 trad, 1 pitch - Elephant Rock (repeat with Luke)
Snack Break, 5.10a trad/sport, 1 pitch - Owl Rock (afternoon climb w/Luke, Hilary, Greg, Dani, Keri, Kayte)
Snack Break Direct, 5.8+ trad/sport, 1 pitch - Owl Rock (Luke, Hilary, Greg, Dani, Keri, Kayte)
Soap on a Rope, 5.7R trad, 1 pitch - Bath Rock (sunset climb with Dani and Kayte)
Cowboy, 5.5 trad, 1 pitch - Bath Rock (night climb with Luke)

Monday am:
*Skyline, 5.8 trad, 1 pitch, Morning Glory Spire (Hilary, Luke, Greg)
Delay of Game, 5.8 sport, 1 pitch, Park Lot Rock - West (Hilary, Luke, Greg)

3 days. 20 pitches. 13 leads. 

* = favorite routes

Saturday, May 3, 2014

2014 Wasatch Climbing Log

March 21 - Hollow Man (5.9 sport, 1 pitch) Challenge Buttress, BCC
                  On a Whim (5.8- trad, 1 pitch) Challenge Buttress, BCC
Luke leading "On a whim" 

April 11 - Steorts Ridge (5.6 trad, 3 pitches) Dead Snag, BCC
                 Outside Corner (5.7 trad, 3 pitches) JHCOB, BCC
Kayte on the third pitch of Steort's Ridge
Kayte on the 2nd pitch of Outside Corner

April 14 - Five Fingers (5.6 trad, 1 pitch) Five Fingers Area, Gate Buttress, LCC
Brian on top rope on Five Fingers

April 16 - Satan's Corner (5.8+ trad, 2 pitches), Dihedrals Area, Gate Buttress, LCC
                           Lisa's Shoulder (5.9 R top rope, 1 pitch), Dihedrals Area, Gate Buttress, LCC
                           Half-A-Finger (5.9+ trad, 1 pitch), Dihedrals Area, Gate Buttress, LCC
First pitch of Satan's Corner
Trish leading the 2nd pitch of Satan's Corner
Top-roping Lisa's Shoulder after climbing Satan's Corner
April 17 - After the Fall (5.9 Trad, 1 pitch) Green Adjective Gully, Little Cottonwood Canyon
Kayte on top rope on "After the Fall"

April 23 - Perhaps (5.7 Trad, 2 pitches) Kermits Wall and Perhaps Area, Little Cottonwood Canyon

April 24 - S-Direct (5.9+ Trad, ~7 pitches) The Thumb Area, Little Cottonwood Canyon
The Thumb, Little Cottonwood Canyon
1st official pitch of S-direct, directly above the lunch counter
Second pitch of S-direct. Finally on the coveted slab section
The sea of Granite slab. We bailed so we wouldn't have to find our way down in the dark.

April 27 - Crescent Crack (5.7 Trad, 2 pitches) Crescent Crack Buttress, Little Cottonwood Canyon
The terrible off-width section on Pitch 2
Luke coming up the second pitch of Crescent Crack

May 2 - Standard Ridge (5.6 Trad, 6 pitches) Stone Crag Area, Big Cottonwood Canyon

May 3 - Sail Away (5.7 Sport, 1 pitch) Glass Ocean Area, Big Cottonwood Canyon
             Glass Ocean (5.8 Sport, 1 pitch) Glass Ocean Area, Big Cottonwood Canyon
             Lifeline (5.7 Sport/Trad, 1 pitch) Geezer Wall, Big Cottonwood Canyon
             Heeere's Johnny (5.8+ Trad, 1 pitch) Redrum/Geezer Wall Area, Big Cottonwood Canyon

Heeere's Johnny (5.8+ finger crack), Big Cottonwwod Canyon
Glass Ocean  
Looking down Glass Ocean

May 10 - Squeeze my Lemon (5.7 trad, 1 pitch) Lizard Head Wall, Little Cottonwood Canyon
               Just Say No To Crack (5.7 sport, 1 pitch) The Egg, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Squeeze My Lemon (5.7 splitter crack) follows the zig-zag crack to the top
Me on lead on Squeeze My Lemon 
Kayte leading Say No To Crack

May 14 - Losing My Religion (5.7 trad, 3 pitches) The Waterfront, Little Cottonwood Canyon
               Comfort Zone (5.9- sport, 1 pitch) The Waterfront, Little Cottonwood Canyon
First pitch of Losing My Religion, LCC
Little Cottonwood Canyon
The slabby 3rd pitch of Losing My Religion
Kayte TRing Comfort Zone 

May 17 - Led By Sheep ("5.7" trad, 4 pitches) Aries Butte, Zion National Park 
               Ashtar Command (5.9 trad, 2 pitches) Ataxia Tower, Zion National Park  
               Kingpin (5.8+ sport, 2 pitches) Bowling Alley, Cedar Canyon     

The approach to Aries Butte, Led By Sheep
Half walking, half climbing up this "5.7" slab on Aries Butte 
Panorama from the summit of Aries Butte
Scrambling up Aries Butte
Me leading up Ashtar Command on Ataxia Tower, Zion
John following the steep first pitch on Ashtar Command
John leading the exposed second pitch 
Hanging belay on Ashtar Command
   
May 27 - Steort's Ridge....again
Amelia coming up the 2nd pitch on Steort's Ridge

June 6 - Pentapitch (5.8 trad, 4 pitches) Pentapitch Area, Little Cottonwood Canyon - Luke took a 25 ft lead fall on a small stopper on a variation of pitch 2.  His fingers are shredded, but the gear held well!

Luke heading up the 2nd pitch
Me on the final pitch, just past the crux

June 7 - Beckey's Wall (5.7 trad, 2 pitches) Beckey's Wall Area, Gate Buttress, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Amelia doing her thing on the steep and exposed upper portion of Beckey's Wall

June 13 - Sweet and Low (5.5 sport, 1 pitch), Challenge Buttress, BCC - Dad's first rock climb
               Jig's Up (5.6 trad, 2 pitches), The Dead Snag, BCC - climbed with Phil
               A Modest Man from Mandrake (5.9 sport, 1 pitch), Dogwood, BCC - rappelled in w/Amelia
Papa Schly speeding up Sweet and Low 
Phil on the final pitch of Jig's Up
Mary-Amelia rapping down to start the climb up "A Modest Man from Mandrake"

June 14 - The Standard Thumb via Indecent Exposure (5.7 trad, 7 pitches, 11 rappels - 70 m rope) - We left Gate Buttress parking lot at 8 am and were back at our car by 4 pm.  We actually pitched out 3 pitches on Indecent Exposure and then another 3 on the The Standard Thumb trough and chimney pitches.  We then scrambled up to the summit block where we roped up for the summit block traverse and mantle. Fun outing.


Luke leading up the final pitch of the Indecent Exposure variation of the Standard Thumb route.  This pitch is the cleanest and most enjoyable of the entire route in my opinion.  
Luke coming up the awkward "Trough Pitch" on the Standard Thumb.  This pitch is definitely interesting, feels like you're climbing a steep slot canyon and is pretty featureless.  There are some run-out sections, but you can definitely protect it with smaller gear.
Luke leading up the spooky and unprotectable chimney.  A #4 cam would have been handy here.  
The exposed traverse and mantle move to get onto the summit of the Thumb.  There's a bolt on the face near my elbow.
Rapping off the summit block of the Thumb, well above LCC.  We rappelled down the S-Direct route with a single 70 m rope - 11 rappels.  


June 18 - Schoolroom (5.6 trad, 3 pitches) Schoolroom Area, Gate Buttress, LCC - Amelia and I climbed the first 3 pitches and rapped off some chains above Bushwhack Crack.
Amelia getting her first taste of crack climbing on the 2nd and 3rd pitches of Schoolroom

June 24 - Satan's Corner (5.8+ trad, 2 pitches) Dihedrals Area, Gate Buttress, LCC - Luke led the first and I led the second. 2nd pitch is spicy, hold onto your britches.

Luke near the top of the steep first pitch of Satan's Corner
Me leading the 2nd pitch of Satan's Corner

June 26 - Addis Adaba (5.7 sport, 2 pitches) chossy

Looking south from the start of the route. Photo compliments of M.A.T.O.
July 11 - Call it What you Please (5.8 trad, 1 pitch) Gate Buttress, LCC
Bushwhack Crack (5.8 trad, 1 pitch) Gate Buttress, LCC
Hook Variation (5.7 trad/sport, 2 pitches) Gate Buttress, LCC
Schoolroom West and Movie Variation (5.8 trad, 3 pitches) Gate Buttress, LCC
Hatchet Crack (5.7 trad, 1 pitch) Gate Buttress, LCC

Luke fighting through the crux on Call it What you Please
Me topping out on Bushwhack Crack
Luke leading the transition pitch between Bushwhack and the Hook
Me leading up the runout and friction Hook Variation 

Luke on the Movie Variation - overhung undercling and smearing feet
July 16 - Heere's Johnny (5.8+ trad, 1 pitch) Redrum Area, Big Cottonwood Canyon
Redrum (5.10c sport, 1 pitch) Redrum Area, Big Cottonwood Canyon

Me leading Heeere's Johnny in Big Cottonwood Canyon


July 17 - The Eleventh Hour (5.8 trad, 4 pitches, alpine, Grade III) Sundial Peak (Lake Blanche), Big Cottonwood Canyon

Luke on the crux on pitch 2.  Tiny hands in dihedral, steep, slick slab for feet
Me close to toping out on pitch 4 of the Eleventh Hour route
Sundial Peak.  The Eleventh Hour route follows the right skyline/arete

July 18 - Implorien (5.9 sport, 1 pitch) Mule Hollow Wall, Big Cottonwood Canyon
                Explorien (5.8 sport, 1 pitch)
                Left of Center Route (5.6 trad, 1 pitch)
*We had no idea what were climbing when were up there.  Figured out the grade and route names after the fact.  Made things interesting.  The approach gains ~1000 ft in about .25 miles.  Wear decent approach shoes.
Luke leading the Left of Center Route, Mule Hollow Wall
Looking across Big Cottonwood from Mule Hollow Wall

July 21 - Comfort Zone (5.9 sport, 1 pitch) Waterfront Area, Little Cottonwood Canyon
                 Thin Slab (5.11 b/c sport, 1 pitch) Waterfront Area, Little Cottonwood Canyon - attempt!
EMc on Comfort Zone
Getting started / towards the end of my attempt on a 5.11b/c slab route. No thanks. 


July 23 - Hatchet Crack (5.7 trad, 1 pitch) Schoolroom Area, Little Cottonwood Canyon w/Brian and Kylee

July 25 - A bunch of hard sport routes (10s and 11s), Graveside Matter Wall, Cedar Canyon

August 1 - Crack in the Woods (5.9 trad, 1 pitch) and Handjive (5.8+ trad, 1 pitch), Crescent Crack Buttress, Little Cottonwood Canyon