Friday, July 18, 2014

Sundial Peak via the Eleventh Hour

Eleventh Hour (5.8 trad, 4 pitches, alpine, grade III) Sundial Peak, Big Cottonwood Canyon
Sundial Peak in mid July
Luke and I left the Lake Blanche trailhead at 7:15 am and we were at the base of the route by 9:15. By 9:45, Luke was on the route, leading the first pitch.  By 2:45 we were back to the car. 2 hours on the approach. 3.5 hours climbing and rappelling the route. 2 more hours on the descent. 7.5 hours total.

Pitch 1: Begins in a weakness on the western side of the north face of Sundial Peak, about .5 miles south of Lake Blanche.  The route-finding is pretty straight forward.  He used almost the entire 70 m of our rope to get to a big ledge where he belayed me up. 5.7.

Luke getting started on the first pitch of the Eleventh Hour
Pitch 2: I lead this pitch up a shallow dihedral and then up and left up through a steep dihedral and slab with a couple tricky, exposed and runout moves.  Small gear would have been nice!  I belayed on a nice ledge above the slab. 5.8.
Luke working through the crux on pitch 2
Pitch 3: Luke led this pitch on fun finger cracks and traversed right and moved up near the arete to a belay ledge. 5.8.    
Luke getting started on pitch 3
Me getting to the top of Pitch 3 on the Eleventh Hour
Pitch 4: I led the final pitch up a fun, juggy and exposed dihedral to the summit. 5.7
Me close to topping out on the final pitch of the Eleventh Hour