Friday, May 24, 2013

Rock Climbing Log 2013- Wasatch Front, Utah

Big Cottonwood Canyon (BCC)
Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC)

Date: May 15, 2013  

Route: Steort's Ridge (The Dead Snag, BCC) - Trad, 5.6, 3 pitches  
Notes: Route took ~1.5 hours
Luke finishing up the final pitch on Steort's Ridge
Route: Sweet and Low (Challenge Buttress, BCC) - Sport, 5.5, 1 pitch
Notes:  Did several laps, very easy climbing, good workout

Doing laps on Sweet and Low

Date: May 16, 2013

Route: Beckey's Wall (Beckey's Wall Area, LCC) - Trad, 5.7, 2 pitches
Notes: Route took ~2 hours
Luke coming up first pitch on Beckey's Wall 

Luke leading steep 2nd pitch on Beckey's Wall

Date: May 21, 2013

Route: Crescent Crack (Crescent Crack Buttress, LCC) - Trad, 5.7, 2 pitches
Notes: We only did the first pitch  (Billie, Paige, Joel, Luke, and I)
Crescent Crack, 1st pitch

Crescent Crack, 1st pitch

Date: May 24, 2013

Route: Schoolroom (Schoolroom Area, LCC) - Trad, 5.6, 5 pitches
Notes:  Very fun!  Took 2:10 minutes to climb, 3 hours car-to-car.
Me leading final pitch on Schoolroom

Date: May 30, 2013

Route: Jigs Up (Steort's Ridge area- Dead Snag, BCC) - Trad, 5.6, 2-3 pitches
Notes:  Not as cool as Steort's.  Climbed it with Kayte and Luke, took 2 hours.  Only one double-rope rappel to the ground.

Luke coming up the fun finger cracks on the second pitch
Rappelling off Jig's Up, BCC

Date: May 31, 2013

Route: Crescent Crack (Crescent Crack Buttress, LCC) - Trad, 5.7, 2 pitches
Notes: I took my first lead "fall" on the off-width crack on the second pitch.  We got spooked and rapped off from the chains.  I dislike off-widths.

Off-width crack on second pitch of Crescent Crack
Minor cut from fall

Date: June 5, 2013

Route:  Perhaps (Perhaps Area, LCC) - Trad, 5.7, 2 pitches
Notes:  Luke led first, I led second.  Super fun!  Bring lots of long runners next time to reduce rope drag

We also climbed Green Adjective (5.9 - finger crack) on top rope after rappelling off Perhaps.

Luke coming up 2nd pitch on Perhaps

Date: June 7, 2013

Route: Outside Corner (JHCOB Wall, BCC), Trad, 5.7, 3 pitches
Notes: Very fun route, walk off is a pain - make sure to bring approach shoes up the route with you

First pitch of Outside Corner

Looking down to climber coming up 3rd pitch

Date:  Friday June 14, 2013

Route: For Whom the Bells Toll (Bells Canyon), Trad, 5.7, 5 pitches
Notes: Luke and I carried a full trad rack and rope up 2 miles, 2 k ft., just to end up free-soloing this route.  One 5.7 move, the rest is 5.5 at best.  We protected the one move on pitch 4.  

Looking into Little Cottonwood Canyon from the top of 'For Whom the Bells Toll'

Date: Saturday June 15, 2013

Route:  West Slabs (Mt. Olympus), Trad, 5.5, usually 9-10 pitches
Notes:  This was my third time on this route.  We simul-climbed 4 pitches and soloed the rest.  Took us 1 hour 45 minutes from the base of the climb to the ridge.  Never roping up for this again, but still pretty fun.  Heading to the Palisades next weekend!

 Bring an ice axe if there's snow in the gully! It got sketchy and tricky up higher. 

Our 2nd pitch began at a set of chains about 200 ft from the base of the wall

Not steep

Good anchor

Brent at the top

Saturday July 27, 2013

Route: Tingeys Terror via Sweet Jane Variation, Trad, 5.7, 4 pitches
Notes:  Climbed with Luke and Kayte.  Started just right of Beckeys Wall start near bolts and followed steep crack (Sweet Jane variation 5.7) up to a belay tree.  From there we climbed up Tingeys and traversed too early on a STEEP slab onto Tingeys direct (5.7+).  If that was 5.7+, I would hate to see what a harder friction climb is like.

We climbed up the last pitch of Tingeys Terror, which was a left-facing crack, which takes a right up and over easy terrain to some trees.  We scrambled above the trees to a set of chains and rapped off the east side of the buttress.  

5.7 Sweet Jane Variation crack
Coming up Tingeys Terror, the pitch before the traverse
Scary, mostly unprotectable traverse onto Tingeys Direct (5.7+)

Wednesday August 7, 2013

Route: Bushwhack Crack, Trad, 5.8, 2 pitches
Notes: Planned to climb Pentapitch, but 3 groups were ahead of us, so we went down the canyon to do Bushwhack Crack.  This is a great, sustained 5.8 hand crack.  Crux is right off the deck.  Very well protected.  2nd pitch is much easier.