Sunday, June 24, 2012

Tingey's Terror, LCC

Tingey's Terror
5.7 Trad
4 pitches

Tingey's Terror is on the Gate Buttress to east of Beckey's Wall (Classic climb). In order to climb Tingey's you have to first climb either Tarzan (5.10a) or Sweet Jane Variation (5.7). We climbed the Sweet Jane Variation in 1 pitch (recommended 2 on Mountain Project). Then we climbed up 2 more pitches to the top of the "5th pitch." The most challenging section is the fifth pitch traverse on smooth granite. The only protection is a bolt half way across the face (20 ft.). According to an older friend of mine, that route used to have no protection at all on the face. We were a bit nervous with the bolt, I can't imagine traversing without it! A fun route, if you are looking to get several moderate pitches in. Each belay station has chains.