Sunday, June 24, 2012

Beckey's Wall, LCC

Beckey's Wall
5.7 Trad
2 pitches

Beckey's Wall is on the Gate Buttress in Little Cottonwood Canyon. It is perhaps the most famous route in the Wasatch. It was first climbed by Fred Beckey in 1961.

The route is directly above the Gate Buttress parking lot and follows a fairly steep dihedral for the first pitch past rappel chains to the top of the crack. Be prepared to build your own anchor. We used #1.5 and #3 camalots and a #4 stopper for our anchor. The second pitch climbs up a vertical flake to a set of chains or to a tree at the bottom of an easy 5.4 dihedral. The second pitch is super exposed and super fun and is one of my personal favorites. A great route to practice leading trad on, with great protection and fun climbing!

Beckey's Wall: Blue
Sweet Jane Variation: Red
Tingeys Terror: Yellow

Looking down from the top of Beckey's Wall